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Note: You are on a reference page about one of my favorite jewelry
companies, R DeRosa. Our DEROSA jewelry that is available
FOR SALE can be seen
by clicking
HERE.
If you have some for sale, please contact me because I collect, buy and
sell it, and I pay very fair prices. My email address is jane@morninggloryjewery.com.
DEROSA JEWELRY
1934 to 1955 New York City
Let me begin by saying that I am a big fan of DeRosa jewelry. It’s been one of my top favorites for almost 30 years, so
let me know if you have any for sale. I will always pay really fair
prices for pieces that I like, and I like a lot of their pieces!
Ralph DeRosa Company jewelry is known for its intricate and layered designs,
high quality, unusual stones and lovely translucent enameling. Some of their
jewelry lines were designed by Elvira but I do not know who designed the
rest. Mr. DeRosa’s wife was Virginia and she and their two
daughters, Teresa and Vera (Elvira), also participated in the company.
According to two different
articles in Women’s Wear Daily, one an obituary for Virginia DeRosa, the
DeRosa company was out of business sometime before Spring of 1955. According
to his obituary, Ralph died in August of 1942, and Virginia died in May
of 1966.
DeRosa
jewelry designs include floral, figural, and retro motifs, as well as designs inspired by
some of the precious jewelry of past eras.
DeRosa jewelry is not easy to find because not many of each design were
made, but is certainly more than worth the search. After years of
collecting and selling this wonderful brand, I have found that the
majority of their pieces were signed, so beware unsigned attributions
unless there is very good reference material to substantiate it. This firm was
at 404 Fourth Street in New York City and created jewelry from the
mid-1930s until the mid-1950s.
As a serious collector, one of the best things about this company is the
rarity because not many of their pieces were made. Many of the pieces shown below are the
only ones I have seen in all the years I’ve been handling
vintage jewelry. One exception is the cupid riding on a pearlized cloud
brooch, which I see very often. An example of it is shown in this
feature. For me, that and their brooches using tumbled stones are much less interesting than the other DeRosa
pieces, and my guess is that they were made later.
Hand painted design illustrations from the De Rosa Jewelry Company
seem to have been the first step in the design process. These miniature
works of art are from a collection of over 200 illustrations
that I am happy to own and use as a reference. Several are dated in the
1940’s, and many have hand written notes about how each piece should be
produced. Many jewelry designers never
worked on paper first, but for those who did, these illustrations are
illuminating as to the thought process and
design sense that went into creating this amazing jewelry.
We BUY, collect and sell DeRosa jewelry!
To see some of the wonderful original hand painted design illustrations of DeRosa Jewelry, click
HERE
DeRosa page 1 click HERE
–
DeRosa page 2 click HERE –
DeRosa page 3 click HERE –
DeRosa page 4 click HERE –
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DEROSA JEWELRY Page 5
Reference, advertisements and more
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DeROSA and HOBE
Look-a-likes |
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Very rarely I run across a piece of DeRosa jewelry that is made exactly like Hobe
jewelry of the 1940’s, and the pieces here are some examples. They are made just
like a Hobe bracelet or clip, but they are clearly signed "DeRosa". As far as I
know, there was no connection between these two companies, but these are SO
similar that it does make me wonder. I wish I knew for sure, and if you
do, please email and let me know. |
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DEROSA bracelet in the 1940s Hobe style with unfoiled
rhinestones in green, golden and pale yellow set in silver wire work
and filigree, 6-3/4" by 2" wide at the front and 1/2" wide at the
back, circa 1940s. Hinged links make this flexible to wrap around the
wrist comfortably, and it is in very good vintage condition with no
missing stones and no damage or repairs. This is signed "DeRosa"
on the back.
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View #d38802 |
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DEROSA and HOBE bracelet
clasps. While these are both on typically Hobe looking
bracelets, the top one is
signed "DeRosa" and the bottom "Hobe". I wish I still had a shot of
the front of this DeRosa bracelet, but I sold it decades ago. The similarity is amazing and yet there is no
documented connection I am aware of between the Hobe and DeRosa
companies.
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R DEROSA mark on the back of the very Hobe style bracelet shown
here.
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DEROSA Hobe
style bracelet with deep rose, pastel blue, sapphire blue and clear unfoiled
rhinestones in a hand wrought filigree setting with little four-petal flowers and
swirls of twisted wire. Made in the 1940s, it is 7" long and the between 2"
wide at the front down to 1/2" wide at the back. It is signed "R
DeRosa" clearly on the back.
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DEROSA Hobe style bracelet, side view.
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DEROSA
fur clip in the Hobe style with three shades of blue unfoiled rhinestones, one
royal blue, one pastel blue and one aqua. Signed "R DeRosa" on the back, it is
in a
hand wrought filigree setting that looks like the work of a Hobe clip. Made in the 1940s, it
is 2-1/8" by 1-7/8" and it is in very good vintage condition.
View
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View #d42428
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DEROSA bracelet in the style of Hobe with unfoiled pastel blue, pink and
clear rhinestones, a lovely combination. It is signed "R DeRosa" on the back of
the clasp and it was made in the 1940s. The front is 2-1/4" by 2" and the
wearable length is 7-1/8".
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#d42469
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DEROSA unsigned earrings with blue and green rhinestones surrounded by clear
rhinestones in a gold plated sterling silver setting, 1-1/8". Made
in the 1940s, they are reminiscent of Hobe jewelry but the findings on
these earrings are those often used by DeRosa. The patent number
on the findings is "1967965", granted to Ballou & Company in 1934.
Ballou made all kinds of findings and other jewelry companies used these
earring findings as well, but so far I have not seen them on Hobe
earrings. NOTE: I have now seen a Sandor bracelet that has a
similar gold plated S-shaped element like those on the front centers of these earrings. Just goes to
show that it can be a challenge to attribute unsigned jewelry to a
particular maker.
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View #d42456 |
DEROSA
lavender and green enameled tulip flower dress clip with artificial pearl
stamen and clear rhinestone accents, circa 1940, it is 2-1/2" by
2-1/8". Fabulous translucent enameling enhances this
three-dimensional piece.
Also shown
is the
DEROSA original design art work which
would have been done for approval before this clip was put into production, a
gouache on tissue which is itself a rare one-of-a-kind piece. As you can see, a few
minor changes were made in the final design when it was produced.
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#d20434
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This DEROSA
original design art work would have been done for approval before this clip
was put into production.
It is a
gouache or watercolor on tissue paper and is itself a rare one-of-a-kind
piece. As you can see, a few small changes were made in the final design
when it was produced. This is the original design art work for the flower
clips
shown in this row and one below.
View
#d20434
Art work #202
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DEROSA
tulip flower brooch with faceted red glass beads centered with clear
rhinestones and clear rhinestone petal and leaf tips, all in a gold plated setting, 2-3/4" by
2-1/8". It is also a bit similar to Coro patent 140,016 dated 1945,
but Coro did copy other jewelry makers. An almost illegible
mark on the back says something like, "F_ _ RS". I don’t
know what that means.
Also
shown is the
DEROSA original design art work
which would have been done for approval before this brooch would have
been put into production, a gouache on tissue which is a itself a rare
one-of-a-kind piece. As you can see, a few minor changes were made in the
final design when it was produced.
View #d37300
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Much to my surprise, I found the signed Deja tulip flower fur clip at
the right, which is like the ones above except that one
of those is signed by DeRosa and the other has an illegible signature. Was
there a connection between DeRosa and Deja I wonder?
That made me think of
the flower fur clips in the row below, which came in at least three
colors, one signed DeRosa,
one signed Reinad and one not signed at all. |
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DeRosa was made in New York City from 1934 to
about 1955.
Deja was only made jewelry under that
name for a few years between
1939 and 1941, and then, due to a patent dispute with another jewelry
company, the name was changed to Reja.
Reinad jewelry was made from the 1920s to the 1950s, and they were known for
copying the designs of other jewelry companies, but with lesser quality. They were also based in New
York City. |
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While the tulip fur clip is the same basic
design, it was decorated in different ways by each maker.
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DEJA
tulip flower fur clip with lovely aqua faceted glass beads, each with a clear
rhinestone in the center and with each portion lined with clear rhinestones as
well for extra brilliance. It is all set in gold plated silver and signed
on the back "Deja", made in about 1940, 3" by 2". We have in our
collection the DeRosa design art work for a very similar
flower, shown
HERE, and find it interesting that they were offered by at least two
different companies, Deja and DeRosa.
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REINAD flower brooch with multiple layers in bright blue and clear
rhinestones, the first layers of a rose gold plate and the others of yellow
gold. This is signed "Reinad" on the back in tiny difficult to read
letters, but the signature is there. It is 4" by 3" and does have some
light finish wear on close examination. I have seen this same clip
with the DeRosa signature, and also some not signed at all.
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DEROSA flower fur clip with red and clear rhinestones
in a gold plated setting, signed "R DeRosa" on the back,
it is 4-5/8" circa 1940. Reinad also made this same brooch,
and we’ve seen others that are not signed at all. An example of the
signed Reinad version is shown here at the right.
View
View #d19809
REINAD flower brooch with multiple petal layers in rich red and
clear rhinestones, the first layers have a faint a rose gold wash and
the others are yellow gold. It is signed "Reinad" on the back in
tiny letters, you have to look close but the signature is there. It is
4" by 3" and does have some light finish wear on close examination. We
have had others of this same design with the DeRosa or Reinad signatures, and
also some that were not signed at all.
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View #X42349 |
FLOWER brooch with green and clear rhinestones in a gold plated setting, 4-5/8" long,
but this one is unsigned. Reinad made this same brooch, and we’ve also seen some signed
"DeRosa".
View #d20825
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Occasionally, we have a lovely DeRosa piece refreshed with new enamel work. We
send it to an excellent professional enamellist to have this work done, and the
pieces shown here are examples of beautiful results.
Since enameling can sometimes show signs of wear as it ages over many years, this is a nice way to extend
the wearable life of the piece. I will always state
in my descriptions if I have had my pieces enameled again. |
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DEROSA
large gold plated feather brooch with wonderful enamel work in aqua, pale
yellow and pink with clear rhinestones, 4" long and made in about 1940.
It is signed at the on the back at the very bottom of the stem, and the
enamel work has been professionally done this year (2023). Because the
gold finish was a tad rough, we thought the enamel would add a lot to this
marvelous brooch, and it has, even though it is not original to the
piece. The last photo shows how it originally looked when it came
to me.
View
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View #d41953 |
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DEROSA
fur clip with a feather, flowers and leaf, all in gorgeous lavender,
pink and green with clear rhinestone accents. The masterful detail
in the enamel work on this piece, with tiny lines accenting each
element, shows a skilled professional hand. The
finish was a bit rough when this came to me, so rather than not being
able to wear it. I had it professionally enameled and the result is amazing!
It is signed on the back "R DeRosa" and was made in the 1940s.
View
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View #d42130
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DEROSA violet flowers, leaves and ribbons fur clip with a brilliant
aqua unfoiled rhinestone center surrounded on one side by a spray of
lavender enameled violets with lovely detail and clear rhinestones.
On the other side is a pink ribbon lined with clear rhinestones. The clip has
been professionally enameled again to restore its beauty and she did a
wonderful job on it right down to the delicate details on the violets. Made in the
1940s, it is signed "R DeRosa" on the back and it is 3-1/4" by 2".
The design art work from my collection is similar to this clip, shown
here for reference.
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View #d42441 |
DEROSA
design art work for a very similar fur clip to the one shown here at the
left.
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DEROSA flower fur clip with three curled and pierced petals
surrounding a lovely glass pearl center with the petals, leaves and
stems lined with clear rhinestones, some of which have turned gray. The
flower petals are a soft pink enamel and the leaves and bracts are green. Because this came to me with finish damage, I have
had it professionally re-enameled and the result is really beautiful as
you can see. It is 3" by 2" and has wear on the back on gold plated
setting. It is signed on the back "R DeRosa" and it was made
in the 1940s.
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Every once in awhile I see a wonderful piece of DeRosa
jewelry that has issues that cannot be repaired. The
clips on the right and left are good examples. I want to share
them here so that their lovely designs can be seen by others, and hopefully I will find them in good
condition one day!
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DEROSA red and green enameled lily flower fur clip with blue glass
bead stamen, 4" by 2-1/4". Sadly, the back flower petal
missing. It is signed "R DeRosa" on the back.
While the photo may look upside-down, the clip on the back shows that it
was meant to be worn like this. I am always sad to see a wonderful
piece of DeRosa that is broken like this one, but I have worn it as-is and no one noticed the
missing petal.
View #D40787 |
We are always looking for DeRosa
jewelry to buy, and because I collect as well as sell it, I pay very
good prices for the pieces I like. Please do
EMAIL
me if you have any for sale.
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DEROSA fur clip, as is with one stem missing,
it has a large purple marquis shaped center rhinestone, three shocking pink long
rhinestones and clear rhinestone accents, along with green enameled leaves.
Sadly,
it’s missing one stem at the bottom where there are only two rather than three stems. It is 4-1/3" by 1-5/8" and signed "R
DeRosa" on the back. We have a complete version of this clip in
another color, item #d42579
HERE.
View
#d41254
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Note: You are on a reference page. DEROSA
jewelry that is available FOR SALE can be seen
by clicking
HERE.
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DeROSA given new life!
Restoring vintage jewelry seems to
have gotten a bad name, but I think it is because such restorations are
often not disclosed to the buyer. When a piece of jewelry comes to me
with wonderful design and underlying quality, but with finish damage or
other issues that can be repaired, I am happy to have it professionally
restored and given a new life. I definitely think that it should
be disclosed to the buyer in my descriptions, though, so that the buyer
can decide for themselves how they feel about it.
Here is a good example.
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DEROSA intricate pink enamel flower bouquet fur clip with unfoiled topaz
colored marquis and oval center stones with
lots of clear rhinestones, some that have turned gray over the years,
and lovely green enameled leaves,
4-1/3" by 2-1/4". There is a bow at the top accented with rhinestones and pink
enameling. NOTE: This came to me with worn enamel, so I had it
professionally enameled again in 2020.
The colors were chosen based on the original design art work in my
collection, seen here at the right. The rhinestones are brilliant,
the gold plated finish is in very good vintage condition and the clip is
tight and works well. From the 1940s, it’s another wonderful design from
this amazing jewelry maker, and it is signed on the back "R DeRosa".
View
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View #d41110 |
The wonderful DeRosa fur clip shown at the left came with finish damage, and since
I thought the design and quality of materials were well worth it, I had a
professional enamellist restore it.
The results will allow this beautiful piece to be worn and enjoyed for many more
years to come.
DEROSA original drawn and painted design art work for the clip shown at the
far left.
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DEROSA "Am I or Am I not!?"
These are lovely and unusual unsigned pieces that have the earmarks of DeRosa
jewelry,
but they are not signed, and so far I cannot find a reference to be 100% sure
who made
them.
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DEROSA
looking
flower fur clip with round red glass bead stamen, lavender petals, green leaves
and clear rhinestones, 2-1/8" by 2-1/8". As can be seen in the photo,
it has many dark rhinestones, but in this case that does not bother me and I enjoy it anyway.
It has no signature so I cannot be certain that this is a DeRosa clip, but
it sure has the earmarks of either their work or a of a Dujay fur clip.
View
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View #d41256 |
DEROSA
original design art work for a brooch or clip. Could this be for the
clip at the left? It is similar but not exactly the same.
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DEROSA style flower brooch with translucent green, rose and orange enamel over
gold tone and accented with clear rhinestones and artificial pearls, 3-5/8".
Having handled so much DeRosa jewelry, this reminds me of one, but so far I
am not sure.
View
View #d29529
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DEROSA original design art work that could have been for the clip shown at the
right. This clip has the typical DeRosa filigree leaf veins and
scrolls. #d41179.
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DEROSA unsigned flower and ribbons brooch with purple rhinestones, clear
rhinestone accents and green enameled leaves, 3" by 2-3/4". The enamel
on this was professionally restored recently because there was almost no
enamel left when I got it. Like many pieces of jewelry from this era,
there were also graying rhinestones. The original DeRosa design art work
shown at the left looks a lot like this brooch, but it is not identical. I am so pleased that we
could give this lovely old clip a new life.
View
View #d41179 |
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DeROSA jewelry
advertisements
Many advertisements here came from Liz G. and Pat Seal, and we
thank them for their generosity. |
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DEROSA October 1939 advertisement for a blossom fur clip.
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DEROSA advertisement from May 1939. DeRosa never had locations in London or
Paris, no matter what this ad said! And these were made of rhinestones of
course, not rubies and sapphires.
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DEROSA advertisement in an August 1941 edition of Women’s Wear Daily
and an ad from May 1942 for a version
of the peacock clip.
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DEROSA jewelry in a magazine advertisement "Rhinestones resplendent by
Ralph DeRosa". This is from December of 1935.
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DEROSA December, 1941, Vogue Magazine magazine advertisement for a clip.
The ad says "Ralph DeRosa, 404 4th
Avenue, NYC – Jewels by DeRosa $16.00. A two-toned gold plated clip with simulated
topaz or amethyst.
Two-tone gold plated clip of simulated rhinestones with topaz or amethyst. Leading stores." This
DEROSA
fur clip can be seen
HERE. |
DEROSA 1943 Women’s Wear Daily advertisement for two fur clips. The
advertisement said these were to be worn two at a time, and it called them
"Whimsies for the Lapels, designed to be worn in pairs". It says the
rhinestones are "imported, simulated jewels". There were also matching
earrings for these
DEROSA
clips.
Ad courtesy of Liz G |
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DEROSA December 1943 Women’s Wear Daily advertisement for a fur clip. It says "Pin Badge of design inspired by a court medal set with
imitation precious stones on gold plated sterling". It was priced at
$40.00
back then, a hefty price for that time when a bar of Ivory Soap cost only 6
cents. Just think, one dollar in 1940 would be worth $22.31 today!
Ad courtesy of Liz G.
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DEROSA advertisement from Women’s Wear Daily, March, 1943.
This
DEROSA clip is such fun! The ad says
"The Bee – intricate design in green or rose plated sterling with
delicate openwork wings, outlined by rhinestones, forming the setting
for an extremely realistic central jewel". Two lapel pins in
graduated sizes are sketched here, with similar matching earring at the
bottom. "Created by Ralph de Rosa Inc." This is patent
number 20026934.
Regardless of this ad calling them bees, in person they look more like
colorful flies to me! |
DEROSA December 1944 advertisement for a brooch like this
DEROSA, calling it a
"DeRosa spray with simulated pearls". Our version was set with green glass
balls instead of the glass pearls. It sold for $29.98 back then.
Ad courtesy of Liz G.
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DEROSA advertisement that for this
DEROSA clip. It is dated
September of 1945, and it says "Bouquet pin by DeRosa set with red stones,
gold-plated setting". Back then the clip was priced at $60.00 and the
matching earrings at $32.50, a high price for that time. |
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DEROSA
August-September 1946 De Rosa advertisement. The words say, "Brilliants on
sterling with varicolored pendants – finished in gold or rhodium. Sold
in finer stores.
DEROSA
designed
jewels". We have the fur clip advertised here.
View Sept. 15, 1946 Vogue
Courtesy of Pat Seal. |
DEROSA 1946 Vogue Magazine advertisement for a lovely
DEROSA necklace like the one we have. It says, "DeRosa Designed Jewels-
Brilliance and simulated pearls in gold or rhodium plated sterling at Finer
Stores."
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Advertisement for a De Rosa set of a clip, bracelet and earrings, 1947.
The ad reads, "DeRosa Designed Jewels. Brilliants on sterling, rhodium
or gold finish, Ralph De Rosa Company, New York".
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Harper’s Bazaar Magazine advertisement from August 1946. It says,
"De Rosa Designed Jewels Rhodium or gold finish on sterling, at finer
stores. Ralph DeRosa New York". Courtesy of Pat Seal.
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DEROSA advertisement 1947
This was in the March 1947 Harper’s Bazaar Magazine issue.
The ad states this jewelry is "DEROSA
designed jewels- Brilliants with
Victorian enamel on sterling-rhodium or gold finish- at fine stores".
This is the bow brooch shown in the ad
View and we had the bracelet as well.
View |
DEROSA
This 1948 advertisement for the butterfly brooch says, "DeRosa’s gold
finished sterling silver replica butterfly pin $20.00 and matching
earrings $12.50".
Ad Courtesy of Liz G
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DEROSA advertisement from Harper’s Bazaar Magazine, February
1947. "DEROSA
designed jewels. Brilliants on sterling – rhodium or gold finish.
At Finer Stores". It shows the necklace, clip and earrings.
The set is
HERE. |
DEROSA designed Jewels ~ Ralph DeRosa Company, NY".
This ad is from the August 15, 1946 edition of Vogue Magazine.
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DEROSA advertisement
from 1946-1947 reads, "Designed
Jewels, Brilliants with simulated pearls…". This clip can be seen
HERE.
Ad courtesy of Pat Seal.
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"Glamour for her furs, sparkle for her costumes.
DEROSA glamour pins. You can’t give her the moon but you can pick out glamour pins…"
The price for the pheasant brooch in December 1940 was $16.50. This
particular
DEROSA
piece came as either a brooch or a fur clip.
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The
DEROSA ad for this set says, "DEROSA
designed, brilliants on
sterling, rhodium or gold finish". In another vintage ad for this
set in sterling silver, it states that the brooch sold back then for
$89.50 and the earrings for $55.00. One ad is from the October
1946 issue of Vogue Magazine.. That is an amazingly high
price for the 1940s!
NOTE:
I read recently that one dollar in 1940 would be worth $22.00 today, in
2024.
That makes those DeRosa prices hard to believe, but I also saw where a
Hobe bracelet from that era sold for $55.00.
HERE is an inflation calculator to play with. |
DEROSA December 1946 advertisement for the same set in the ad above
here. This ad says the price for the set is $145.00!
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Note: You are on a reference page. DEROSA
jewelry that is available FOR SALE can be seen
by clicking
HERE.
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