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VICTORIAN CUT STEEL JEWELRY
VICTORIAN JEWELRY is as complex in it’s symbolism, sentiment and
design as the fashion, architecture and decor of the time. Worn as an
ornament, a love token or a remembrance, jewelry not only completed the
well-dressed lady’s costume but also denoted her position in society,
her marital status and her sense of self.
Since the Victorian era stretched over six decades, many types of jewelry
came and went in vogue.
CUT STEEL is polished steel faceted studs riveted to a steel
backing to create jewelry and ornaments,
buttons and chatelaines. Popular from the
Georgian through the Victorian eras, cut steel jewelry in
the warm glow of candlelight must have been something to behold. Motifs
varied from the simple to the sublime, with multiple layers and densely
packed studs. Designs could be enhanced by the use of various sized
studs as well. Each stud could have up to 15 facets, and in general the
finer and older the piece the more facets the studs will have. Made in
both England and Europe, this style of jewelry fell out of favor around the turn of the 19th century, but it never falls out of
favor with me.
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VICTORIAN cut steel grand parure in it’s original fitted box, an
amazing set. It has gilt fringe, chain and cut steel elements blended into
the marvelous design. Each element is decorated with tiny faceted brads and
it is in excellent condition, with only the earring backs being
professionally replaced at some point in the past.
It’s original box has a domed lid and a purple velvet lining, but it is in
as-is condition in that the hinge is broken. Finding an amazing parure like
this one is hard enough, but when you add the original box fitted for this
set, it is even more rare.
Included is the necklace, bracelet, brooch and earrings as well as the box.
In the wonderful book by Davidov & Dawes, "Victorian Jewellery", on page 98,
it is identified French in origin.
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CUT STEEL
Woodstock was a small town outside Oxford, England, site of the most famous cut
steel workshops circa 1760. A jeweler during that time could have been
selling cut steel jewelry a price higher than gold. Steel jewellery became
fashionable in France, and its enormous cost made it popular to the nobility.
Napoleon, on his second marriage to Marie-Louise of Austria, commissioned a whole
parure of cut steel for his new bride. By 1775, Mathew Boulton was the
most famous steel worker, first in London and then in Birmingham. By the 1790s
the industry was producing its finest work, although the French Revolution robbed
the British workshops of their best customer. Though many shops in England
closed, the French cut steel industry survived to the turn of the 19th century. |
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GEORGIAN cut steel and
artificial half-pearl necklace, circa 1775-1800, 14 facets on each stud,
glass half pearls set in steel, 17-1/2" chain with 2-1/2" front drop. Most
studs have 12-15 facets. "Fabulous" is a considerable understatement when
describing this necklace and it’s condition. See Dawes & Collings "Georgian
Jewellery, 1714-1830" page 18; Romero’s "Warman’s Jewelry, Ed. 3" page 33,
and Benjamin’s "Antique Jewellery" page 119 for similar pieces.
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Since cut steel will rust if it gets wet
or damp and is difficult to polish or clean, much of it has been discarded and a
relative few good pieces remain today. I would date the piece at left between
1775-1800 as the individual brads are quite small. In general, the smaller the
pieces of cut steel used in the jewelry, the earlier the item was. Later jewelry
had larger cut steel brads. |
VICTORIAN cut steel
butterfly necklace, 1-3/4" butterfly on 20" chain. Beautifully design
and an lovely motif for cut steel.
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#V32240
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Close-up of back showing how cut steel
brads are affixed and riveted. |
Close-up of cut steel pieces. You can see the multiple facets on each
brad. |
Close-up of back showing how cut steel brads are riveted and affixed on the
top circles of each earring. Note that the bottom circles are a pressed
design meant to simulate cut steel, not
cut steel itself. |
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GEORGIAN/EARLY VICTORIAN cut steel bracelet with flowers motif, 7" by 1-1/3". View
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View #V25842
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GEORGIAN/EARLY VICTORIAN cut steel daisy flowers motif set. The necklace is 18" by 1-1/3", the
bracelet 7" by 1-1/3", early to mid-1800’s. Faceted polished steel studs
were riveted to a steel backing to fashion this type of jewelry. This
set is particularly pristine and especially brilliant as each tiny stud has
12 facets. See Clifford’s Cut-Steel & Berlin Iron Jewellery, plate II
(possible attribution to Frichot); Romero’s Warman’s Jewelry, Ed. 3 page 33;
Benette & Mascetti’s Understanding Jewellery page 62; Becker’s
Antique & Twentieth Century Jewelry
on page 78, and Bell’s
Collecting
Victorian Jewelry page 41.
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LACY cut steel necklace with
silver chain, cut steel dangles, 15-1/2" by 1". The catch is a later-added replacement.
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VICTORIAN cut steel butterfly belt
or sash buckle, 2-1/2".
This would have adorned the sash or belt in a beautiful way, delicately and
with style.
View #V33733
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VICTORIAN cut
steel belt made of disks and chains. It is a 28-3/4" wearable length, the widest disk is 1-1/2", and this is in very good vintage condition
with every single stud in place. Each stud has from 10-12 facets. "Cut steel" is comprised of
polished steel hand-faceted studs riveted to a steel backing to create
jewelry and ornaments, buttons and chatelaines. Popular from the
Georgian through the Victorian eras, cut steel jewelry,
in the warm glow of candlelight, must have been something to behold, and
that’s why it was worn in place of diamonds. Each stud could have from
about 6 to 15 facets, and in general the finer and older the piece, the
more facets the studs will have.
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View #V38759 |
VICTORIAN cut steel oval pin with 12 to 15 facet brads and older c-catch
on the back, 2" by 1-1/2". View
View #V65265
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EARLY VICTORIAN garnet
cabochons and cut steel pierced earrings, a very lovely combination, 1-1/8".
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View #V31325 |
VICTORIAN cut steel brooch with banded agate center,
a lovely combination, 1-1/2".
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#V31881 |
VICTORIAN cut
steel tops and molded bottoms pierced earrings, 1-1/2".
View #V26605 |
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VICTORIAN opalescent
glass bracelet with cut steel accents, adjustable to 6", 6-1/2" and 7", front 1-1/4" back
1/2". The opalescent stones have a lovely pink reflection.
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View #V33053 |
VICTORIAN cut steel and opalescent glass pendant necklace.
There are cut steel
brads on a gold tone face with cut steel chain, pendant 1-5/8", drop 1", chain
17". View
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View #V35657 |
VICTORIAN cut
steel and enamel butterfly belt buckle, as is with some rust, 3-1/2" by 2".
View #V61886 |
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VICTORIAN large cut steel arrow
clip with hand cut two prong fastener, 6-1/2" by 1-1/3" at the widest.
Because the prongs are fairly wide, this can only be worn on a sweater or
cloth with a very open weave. Each prong is 1/8" wide at the top.
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View #V36091 |
VICTORIAN cut steel insect brooch with wings that move back and forth,
added safety catch, 3" by 1-1/3".
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View #V40505
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VICTORIAN cut steel earrings, 1-7/8".
Cut steel is polished steel faceted studs riveted to a steel
backing to fashion jewelry and ornaments,
buttons and chatelaines. Popular from the
Georgian through the Victorian eras, cut steel jewelry in
the warm glow of candlelight must have been something to behold as it
reflects the light beautifully.
View #V33940 |
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VICTORIAN
belt buckle with cut steel buckle set on gold tone, 2-7/8".
View #V35045
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VICTORIAN
cut steel insect pin with gold tone wings, 1-1/2" by 1". As can be seen
in the photo, there is a bit of rust on the cut steel, but not enough to
detract from this wonderful antique pin, circa 1880, and the safety
catch is newer than the brooch itself, changed at some point to ensure
safety in wearing. Each brad has from 5-8 facets, and the entire pin is
hand made, including the etched designs on the wings.
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View #V39187 |
CUT STEEL
frame of gold metal and cut steel brads.
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View #V39187
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VICTORIAN antique cut steel hook and eye two-piece sew-on closure with a
pierced silver backing, total 3" long by by
1-1/2" wide. From the 1800s, it is still in amazingly good
condition.
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View #V37805
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This photo is from an old movie, and it shows a similar piece
used as a bracelet. Wish I had made note of which movie it was. |
VICTORIAN cut steel stars brooch and earrings, brooch 1-5/8" dangle
pierced earrings 1-1/4" total length, each star 5/8".
View View View #V37501
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VICTORIAN or earlier
Georgian cut steel
and green foiled glass cabochon drop earrings. The
entire length is 1-3/4". Other tinted and foiled quartz pieces can be seen
in the wonderful book "Georgian Jewellery" by Ginny Reddington
& Tom Dawes on page 102, where they date them to circa 1790.
View #V37477
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Both sets shown together.
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VICTORIAN or earlier Georgian cut steel
drop earrings with foil backed red-tinted glass cabochon centers. The
centers look like they are rose tinted and foiled underneath, typical
for this era, and the crackles you see are decorative rather than damage. In other words, the
top of the cabochons are perfectly smooth with no damage at all. The
earring itself is 1-5/8" and the hoops are 1/2" above that. Tinted
and foiled quartz pieces can be seen in the wonderful book "Georgian Jewellery"
by Ginny Reddington & Tom Dawes on page 102, where they date them to
circa 1790.
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View #V38627 |
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VICTORIAN antique silver cut
steel pendant on a pierced metal backing with a loop for a chain to wear this as
a necklace. It is 1-1/2" wide and a total length of 2-1/8" including the top
loop. From the 1800s, it is a lovely piece with very nice sparkle.
View #V37603 |
VICTORIAN cut steel hair ornament which
is 4" long by 7/8" wide. A wonderful selection of cut steel combs can be seen in
the book "Victorian Jewelry: Unexplored Treasures" by Davidov and Dawes, page
124, which dates them circa 1850.
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View #V38222 |
VICTORIAN cut steel brooch with brads showing 12-15 facets in the early
Victorian style, each hand riveted into a heavy back, 1-3/4".
View #V37500
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VICTORIAN cut steel bracelet
with overlapping closure, safety chain, 6-3/4" wearable size, front width
3-1/8", back 5/16". Other cut steel bangles can be seen in
the book, "Bijoux" (Italian edition) by Deanna Cera on page 28. View
#V35589 |
VICTORIAN cut steel brooch and earrings set in a fitted box. The brooch
is 1-3/4" by 1" and has brads with 8-12 facets except the center, which has
15 facets. The earrings are 1-1/4" from hoop top to cut steel bottom and
brads with 12 facets. The is a Victorian hump-back box with fittings inside
to hold the pieces and lined with blue velvet and silk.
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VICTORIAN early 1800’s cut steel bangle, 7" by 1/3". This fastens at the
side and has a safety chain. There is light corrosion on the brads and one
end is lifting a bit, though stable, so this is priced accordingly.
#V38014 |
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VICTORIAN cut steel round brooch with about 12 facets to each of the
larger brads, all hand made, 2". There is a very small amount of corrosion
in some areas, much more visible in the magnified photo than in person. Woodstock,
site of the most famous cut steel workshops circa 1760, was a small town
outside Oxford, England. A jeweler during that time could have been selling
cut steel jewelry a price higher than gold!
View #V37956 |
VICTORIAN cut steel branch
brooch, slightly curved in design, 2-3/4".
View #V35416
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VICTORIAN cut
steel shoe buckle.
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View #V26459a
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VICTORIAN antique cut steel silver bee, fly or insect pendant,
1-1/2" by 1-1/3". All this needs is your own silver chain to wear
it as a pendant necklace. From the 1880s or earlier, this is a fun
antique conversation piece.
View #V42136
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VICTORIAN
cut steel bracelet with mosaic flower bouquet panels, made for a smaller
wrist at 6-1/4" long and 1-1/3" wide at the front. Each panel has a colorful
bouquet on it, and all of them are just lovely, but the most amazing thing
is that even with a loupe, I can see no missing parts at all.
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VICTORIAN cut steel and
mother-of-pearl leaves brooch set on gold tone, Victorian c-catch on the
back, 3-1/2". View
#V36086
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VICTORIAN cut steel and
mother-of-pearl stylized arrow pin set on gold tone, c-catch closure, 3".
View #V36082 |
VICTORIAN cut steel links
brooch with later added safety catch and original extra long Victorian pin
stem, 3-1/3". This is slightly bowed, perfect for a lapel. Each hand made
brad has about 12 facets.
View #V36083 |
VICTORIAN cut steel wide
brooch with later added safety catch, 4". Slightly bowed so perfect for a
lapel. View #V36084 |
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VICTORIAN cut steel arrow
brooch with faceted black glass and tiny etched leaves end, all set on gold
tone, 3-3/4". One tiny brad is missing, so priced as is. This has
a later added c-catch
on the back. I wonder if this was meant to be a Halley’s comet brooch. View
#V36088 |
VICTORIAN cut steel and pale
yellow glass florets, 3". It has a Victorian c-catch on the back.
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View #V36090 |
VICTORIAN cut steel pin
in gold tone, 4-1/4". This has a Victorian c-catch on the back. It has
a comet like shape which is really lovely, perhaps for Halley’s comet.
View #V36085 |
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VICTORIAN cut steel three-row
bangle 2-5/8" size 8-1/4" at around the inside by 1/4" wide.
View #V29758 |
VICTORIAN "MG France"
marked cut steel buckle, circa 1900, 2" by 2-5/8". A similar piece
can be seen in Mora’s "European Jewelry" on page 18.
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View #V29768 |
VICTORIAN cut steel horseshoe pin for good luck, 1-1/8".
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#V25994 |
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VICTORIAN cut steel small buckles,
set of 2.
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View #V29735
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VICTORIAN cut steel
earrings. These may have originally been buttons, as the screw-back fittings
would have been added in the first quarter of the 1900s.
View #V29736 |
VICTORIAN cut steel horseshoe
pierced earrings circa 1890, 1/2". View
#V29439 |
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VICTORIAN cut
steel very delicate belt buckle with scrolled design, 2-1/4" by 2". View
#V26459d |
LADIES’ belt or sash buckles in florals, cut steel and
sterling.
"Steel buckles, diamond cut, bright finish."
A.C. Becken Catalogue, 1902 |
VICTORIAN cut steel shoe buckle with star and foliate motif. View
#V26459b |
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VICTORIAN cut steel buckle, rectangular, 2-1/2" by 1-1/2".
View #Q28183 |
VICTORIAN cut steel buckle, tiny rectangle, 1-3/4" by 1". #Q28184 |
VICTORIAN cut steel buckle, unusual triangular, 3-3/4" by 2".
#Q28185 |
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VICTORIAN cut steel shoe buckles, set of 2, France, 2-1/2" by 1-5/8"
each. View #Q28186 |
VICTORIAN cut steel
two-piece buckle with stars, total width 4" by 1-1/2".
View
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View #V62870 |
VICTORIAN feathery cut steel
brooch, a dainty delight, 3".
View #V64796 |
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CHATELAINE top, part of the set #a28587 |
SEWING
CHATELAINE 3-1/2" belt clip chatelaine of steel and 12-facet cut
steel brads holding 11" chains with a 1-1/2" thimble and bucket holder,
1-1/2" wheel type pin cushion, 2-1/8" aide memoir with 2 thick bone
pages, 3-1/3" scissors, 2-3/4" tube holding a bone handled 2" punch and
2-5/8" retractable pencil with thick lead, circa 1820. A more
sophisticated cut steel chatelaine can be seen in "Jewels & Jewelry" by
Clare Phillips on page 65.
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#a28587 |
CHATELAINE scissors, part of the set #a28587 |
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VICTORIAN cut steel chatelaine notebook, part of the set #a29100 |
VICTORIAN 1800s cut steel
sewing chatelaine, 2-5/8" top with 7-1/2" to 10" chains, 1-1/2" pin cushion
still with 2 hand-made pins, 2-1/2" pencil, 1-3/4" whistle, 1-5/8" wax, and
1-1/8" glove hook/corkscrew for getting corks out of perfume bottles, 7/8"
measuring tape that winds in and a notebook with 2" by 1-1/3" ivory pages,
cut steel brads 10-15 facets.
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View #Q29100 |
VICTORIAN cut steel chatelaine pin holder, part of the set #a29100 |
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VICTORIAN steel
sewing chatelaine, 2" horse shoe clip with 16" total length, flip-out
glove hook 1-5/8"; thimble bucket 1-1/4"; needle box 2-5/8".
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View #V32611
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VICTORIAN chatelaine, cut
steel housekeeper’s chatelaine with 2" clip; 11" chains faceted cut
steel links; 2" leather needle case; 2" horse shoe shaped aide memoire,
one end missing; 12" chains with 1-1/3" stamp box; 3-1/2" scissors with
illegible mark; 3-1/2" "Thornhill" pencil; 5-1/2" candle scissors; 1"
eraser and 3" brass scale.
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#Q32493 |
VICTORIAN silver and cut steel chatelaine holder, 2-3/4".
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#V27615 |
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REFERENCES:
Georgian Jewellery,
1714-1830 by Dawes & Collings
Victorian Jewelry by Davidov & Dawes
Warman’s Jewelry, 3rd Edition
by Christie Romero, pages 30-33
Jewels
and Jewelry
by Clare Phillips and Ian Thomas
"Fascination: British & Continental Jewelry 1785-1885"
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