Victorian Vulcanite Necklaces

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Victorian Vulcanite, Bog Oak & French Jet
Necklaces, Lockets, Watch chains, Crosses & Pendants

During part of the Victorian period from about 1860 to
1890, this jewelry was the height of fashion and black was a stylish color,
not just an ornament of mourning. Made of jet, vulcanite, bog oak or pressed
horn, each carried special meaning as a memento of a loved one. A brooch in
the shape of a hand carrying a bouquet conveyed a message symbolized by the
flowers. Photos might be housed inside lockets and watch fobs, and portraits painted on
pendants and earrings. While some black jewelry was meant to be worn
during mourning, black jewelry was fashionable as well and worn for its
beauty and sentiment.

VULCANITE (also sometimes called "ebonite") was made by combining and
heating sap of the Euphorbia or Ficus trees from Malaysia with sulphur.
Invented in 1843 by Thomas Hancock, pieces made of vulcanite were almost always molded, not carved,
and it was used mainly in making jewelry. (Gutta percha was almost never
used in jewelry and is often confused with vulcanite).
HORN is the natural horn of an animal, pressed into a mold to form jewelry.
It is sometimes translucent when held up to strong light.
BOG OAK is fossilized wood or peat found in Ireland. It is a
brownish-black, and has a woody texture.
FRENCH JET and CREPE STONE are black glass and not truly jet at all. Like
all glass, they will be colder to the touch and heavier than jet or
vulcanite.

BOIS DURCI was invented by Francois Charles Lepag in 1856. It is a
composition of fine hardwood sawdust and blood which is pressed then highly
polished.

VICTORIAN lady
wearing a vulcanite cameo
pendant and golden earrings. Cabinet card handwritten on the back in pencil,
"Lizzie Richardson".
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VICTORIAN lady
wearing a
teardrop-shaped necklace and a carved ivory name brooch. Carte de viste
marked "Photographie Parisenne, Letalle & Co., (from Paris), 36 Cannon St.,
Birmingham".

VICTORIAN lady
wearing elaborate vulcanite drops necklace.
View

VICTORIAN vulcanite
grapes necklace, 20" long with 3-1/3" drop at the front.
View #V32599

VICTORIAN vulcanite
links necklace with four pendant maenads on each side of a center classic
maiden in three-quarter profile. The central maiden is a 2-1/2" cameo and
each maenad is 2", all on a 20" chain, circa 1880. This necklace is seen in
"Nineteenth Century Cameos" by Rowan, page 119, as well as in Muller’s book "Jet", page 126.
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View #V29237

VICTORIAN vulcanite 20"
chain and 3" cross.
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View #V31564

VICTORIAN vulcanite
"forget-me-not" embossed sentiment on a lovely locket and links chain.
The locket is 2-1/8" by 1-1/8", the chain 21" with
5/8" by 1/2" links, circa 1880.
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View #V31976

VICTORIAN vulcanite Bacchante cameo locket of a lovely lady with grapes and
leaves in her hair. Inside are fittings for one photo with cover. This was made circa
1870. It is 1-1/3" by 1-1/8" with a 5/16" loop and was often worn on
a black satin ribbon tied at the back of the neck. A Bacchante is a goddess of
the grapes, wine and good times.

View

View #V37486

VICTORIAN vulcanite
Bacchante cameo locket necklace with a 22-1/2" chain with 5/8" by 1/2"
links and a 1-1/2"
by 1-1/8" locket. View
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View #V31857

VICTORIAN vulcanite
fuchsia oval 1-7/8" locket on 28" chain, one link missing.
View
View #V27201

VICTORIAN
lady wearing a vulcanite hand brooch, beads and bracelet.
View

VICTORIAN vulcanite
chain with celluloid cameo pendant, chain is 19" with 5/8" by 1/2" links and
2-1/2". View
View #V31856

VICTORIAN vulcanite beads necklace with inset abalone chips, 32" with
the beads graduating from 5/8" down to 1/4", with a barrel clasp.

View

View #V38458

VICTORIAN vulcanite expansion bracelet with inlaid abalone design, circa
1870. Relaxed size 6-1/2" and can stretch some, front element 1-3/4" by
1-1/2", back width 1". Each link has an impressed design of framed flowers
and leaves.

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View #V38457

ALL

FRENCH paper mache box with abalone inlay, as is with chip repaired,
markings on the bottom, 2-3/4" tall and 3-1/8" wide. The is a paper label on
the bottom on which is hand written, "Henery Clay, visit to Paris 1934,
Frances Lourdes, French Papier Maches". If you look very closely, as it is
very hard to see, there is a repaired of about 3/4" where the lid was
cracked, and it is now very stable and well repaired.

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View #a38436

VICTORIAN vulcanite and silver buckle bracelet marked "D&C Patent"
on the back, circa 1880, 6-5/8" relaxed size, 2" front width and 1-1/2"
back width. An almost identically designed piece can be seen in the book
"Victorian Jewelry" by Davidov and Dawes on page 129.

View

View #V36900

VICTORIAN black horn expansion bracelet with inlaid abalone design,
circa 1870. Relaxed size 6-5/8" and can stretch some, front element
1-5/8" by 1-1/8", back width 1".

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View #V38356

VICTORIAN vulcanite and
silver black buckle
bracelet, 6-5/8" relaxed by 2" front 1-1/2" back. An almost
identically designed piece can be seen in the book "Victorian Jewelry" by Davidov
and Dawes on page 129.
View #V34044

VICTORIAN vulcanite
locket with fuchsia flowers, 4 photo compartments holding photos of what
looks like parents and grandparents, 2-1/8". See
page 26 in Helen Muller’s "Jet Jewellery and Ornaments".
View #V25284

VICTORIAN vulcanite 2" locket on 4-1/2" of chain.
View
View #V25357

VICTORIAN vulcanite
locket in ornate shield motif, 3-1/4".
View #V25285

FRENCH JET
& BLACK GLASS

VICTORIAN antique French jet lacy looking necklace,
16" with a 3-7/8" front drop. French jet is black glass on a black
enameled metal backing and it was used in the late Victorian era to emulate
Whitby jet. It is usually more shiny and the pieces much more delicate
than jet, and can be much more intricate in their designs, like this
wonderful necklace!

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View #V35884

FRENCH jet necklace worn by Ava Gardner in a 1949 movie "The Great
Sinner" which was set in the late Victorian era.

VICTORIAN early 1800s
French jet necklace, 16-1/2" with a front drop of 4". To find this
ornate and well-designed a piece of early French jet in excellent condition
with no missing pieces is a rare treat, and this can go from Gothic to
glamour.
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View #V31972

VICTORIAN French jet bib necklace with amazing delicacy and intricate
design one of the best I have ever had. French jet is black glass, and
each tiny faceted piece here has been mounted to a black enamel metal backing and
joined together for this amazing necklace. The catch is a double hook at the back.
View #V36319

VICTORIAN French Jet (black
glass) necklace, 16" with a 3-7/8" front drop. French jet is black glass
used in the late Victorian era to emulate Whitby jet. It is usually more
reflective and the pieces much more delicate than jet.
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View #V35884
A Victorian French jet necklace was worn by Kathryn Hepburn in a 1947 movie,
"Song of Love", shown in this photo.

VICTORIAN antique French jet pendant necklace from the late 1800s.
It is 18" wearable length
with a 2-5/8" drop and a 2" round pendant. French jet is
black glass on a black enameled metal backing and it was used in the late
Victorian era to emulate Whitby jet. It is usually more shiny and the pieces
much more delicate than jet, and can be much more intricate in their designs This look can go with everything
from Gothic to glamorous!
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View #V37289

VICTORIAN French jet
necklace circa 1880s, 15" wearable size and with a front drop of 4-5/8".
French jet is not jet at all, but a black glass, faceted and fitted onto a metal
backing to create a light weight wonder like this.
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#V37168

VICTORIAN French jet necklace on a vintage mannequin bust.

VICTORIAN French jet collar necklace, 16-1/2" by 1-1/2". "French
jet" is the name by which this faceted glass was called when attached to
a japanned metal backing, as in this necklace.

View

View #V38459

VICTORIAN French
jet black glass
faceted beads and seed beads oval sew-on element. It is 3-1/4" by
2-1/3". If you make period costumes or do reenacting, this would be a
real treasure. It came from the wonderful collection of a lady who
made costumes for the theater many years ago, and she had wonderful stories
to tell.
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#V42369

VICTORIAN French
jet black glass
faceted beads and seed beads eye-shaped sew-on elements, a pair of two, both fabric backed.
Each one is 4-1/2" by 2-1/3", and one has the original paper
tag that says "Made in Germany" in faint printed letters with the
number 10185 on the back, probably an inventory number. If you make
period costumes or do reenacting, these would be a real treasure. They
came from the wonderful collection of a lady who made costumes for the
theater many years ago, and she had wonderful stories to tell.
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View #V41584

VICTORIAN French
jet black glass
faceted beads and seed beads open oval sew-on element. It is 2-3/4" by
1-5/8". If you make period costumes or do reenacting, this would be a real
treasure. This came from the wonderful collection of a lady who made
costumes for the theater many years ago, and she had wonderful stories to
tell.
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#V42371

VICTORIAN French jet rooster sew-on ornament with a yellow glass eye, 5"
by 4". French jet is flat backed and faceted black glass, and because of
the delicacy of these antique pieces, examples like this one are rare.
This came from the wonderful collection of a lady who made costumes for the
theater for many years during the first half of the 1900s. Absolutely
charming, and similar pieces can be seen in Carole Tanenbaum’s book
"Fabulous Fakes" page 30, which shows some of the best of costume jewelry!

View

View #V41577

VICTORIAN crepe stone bar brooch with
four diamond
shaped elements and the oval center. Each has the "tire tracks" texture on
the top, and all are affixed to a gold plated setting that is 2" by 1/2".
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View #V42343

VICTORIAN
black faceted glass snake bracelet with clear rhinestone separators, 16"
long and about 1/2" wide. This is being priced and sold AS IS because it needs new elastic.
This came from the wonderful collection of a lady who made costumes for the theater for many years,
and she had wonderful stories to tell.
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#V41586

VICTORIAN French
jet black glass
faceted beads and seed beads rectangular shaped sew-on elements. One
is It is If you make period costumes or do reenacting, these
would be a real treasure. They came from the wonderful collection of a
lady who made costumes for the theater many years ago, and she had wonderful
stories to tell. One is 3-1/16" by 2" and the other, which is wire backed,
is 3-1/16" by 2".
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View #V42370

VICTORIAN black glass long faceted beads necklace, the longest
I have had so far at 84" total length with a hook closure. This was knotted
between each bead, a sign of quality, and it may have been used as a muff chain.
View
#V37989

VICTORIAN large French jet brooch (very early), each side 3-1/8". Like
all French jet, this is fragile and easy to bend, so care must be taken when
pinning it on and wearing it.

View #V38315

VICTORIAN jet black glass beads necklace with faceted bead spacers,
strung on the original black beading string, 58".

View #V36374

VICTORIAN
black glass 54" long muff chain with very unusual "watermelon seed"
or "crepe stone" beads and seed bead spacers, hook on the end. These
beads were purposely made with a "bloomed" or matte finish in order to
comply with obligatory mourning dress of the era. See this on page 124 of
Helen Muller’s book "Jet".
View
View #V29215

MORE
VULCANITE

VICTORIAN
vulcanite green boy pendant, 2-5/8". See similar pieces on page
90 of Helen Muller’s book "Jet".
View #V28876

VICTORIAN vulcanite pendant
with hand painted porcelain pink "Tyrolean boy" portrait, 2-5/8".
View #V29161

VICTORIAN vulcanite boy
portrait miniature on porcelain pendant, circa 1870, 1-1/2". See page 32 in
Helen Muller’s "Jet Jewellery and Ornaments".
View #V27673

VICTORIAN vulcanite pendant with pansies hand painted on porcelain, circa 1870,
2-5/8". Pansies
are the symbol of remembrance.
View #V27373

VICTORIAN vulcanite links
bracelet with a mosaic padlock charm closure, circa 1880, 7-1/3" long with
1-1/2" padlock. The mosaic is a motif of pink, yellow and white roses, blue
forget-me-nots and green leaves.
View
View #V36379

VICTORIAN vulcanite pendant with a hand painted portrait of a child on
porcelain, total length with loop is 3" by 1-5/8" wide.

View #V38478

VICTORIAN bangle with flower
bouquet motif circa 1880s, 6-1/4" relaxed and will fit up to a 7" wrist,
1-5/8" wide at the front .
View #V36377

VICTORIAN vulcanite bracelet with applied cameo on the front and
decorated all around with carving and a beaded edge, 6-1/4" by 2-1/8" wide
at the front and 1" wide at the back. It’s unusual to find a vulcanite
bracelet with this size and amount of detail. This is a really special piece
circa 1880.

View

View #V38943

VICTORIAN Queen Victoria vulcanite expansion bracelet
circa 1887, her 50th anniversary as Queen, 7" relaxed size,
front 1-3/4" by 1-1/2", back width 1-1/8". This piece can be seen in Helen
Muller’s "Jet Jewellery" on page 128.
This very special piece is from the personal collection of Katy and Helen
Muller, authors of the books on jet jewellery. I am so very privileged to
have it and other pieces from their private collections. It is guaranteed
to be genuine and all original
Victorian. Their books "Jet Jewellery &
Ornaments" and "Whitby Jet" are the best books written on the
subject. View
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View #V36473

VICTORIAN vulcanite bird
and scrolls locket with charming baby photo inside, 1-3/4".
View #V27374

VICTORIAN vulcanite fan brooch from the 1880s, 2". Fans for the
Victorian were symbolic of flirtation and coyness. On the back is an English
registration mark which I think dates this to 1881, but it is very difficult
to read.

View #V25283

VICTORIAN vulcanite
three-dimensional mother bird feeding nested babies locket, 1-3/4".
See page 26 in Helen Muller’s "Jet Jewellery and Ornaments".
View #V27375

VICTORIAN vulcanite heart and flowers pendant, 1-3/4".
View #V29817

VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing a jet brooch and earrings
and a vulcanite locket on chain, 2-1/2" by 4". "E. Le Jeune Photographe,
Naples". View
View #Vkph22

VICTORIAN vulcanite lily locket with fitting on one side inside,
1-5/8" by 1-1/3" with 1/2" loop.
View
View #V32216

VICTORIAN vulcanite
chain with highly embossed roses cross pendant, chain 30" with 1/2" round
links, cross 3-1/3". View
View #V31854

VICTORIAN vulcanite
china with four-lobed pierced and carved pendant with highly embossed floral
front, chain 19" with 1-1/4" by 7/8z" down to 3/4" by 1/2" links and 3"
pendant. View
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View #V31855

VICTORIAN vulcanite
necklace 22-1/2" chain with 5/8" by 1/2" links and Bacchante locket 1-1/2"
by 1-1/8". View
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View #V31857

VICTORIAN vulcanite chain and pendant with flower bouquet design, chain
16" with round 7/16" links, teardrop shaped pendant 1-5/8" by 1-1/8".
View
View #V29896

VICTORIAN vulcanite chain and pendant with flower bouquet design, chain
19", teardrop shaped pendant 2-1/8" by 1-5/8".
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View #V29897

VICTORIAN Prince
Albert watch chain with charms, 11-1/2" chain with 1/2" to 1" charms on 3-1/2"
chains.
View #V28546

VICTORIAN lady wearing a vulcanite
chatelaine chain at her waist.

VICTORIAN vulcanite 17" chain
with hook closure
and 2-1/3" etched design pendant. View
View #V29141

VICTORIAN vulcanite
brooch, a flying cherub holding a garland of flowers circa 1880, 2-1/3" by
1-1/2". This is a rare motif for vulcanite.
View #V36056

VICTORIAN chain necklace
circa 1880s, a nice wearable length at 20" long and links from 7/8" down to
1/2" wide, has the original hook closure. #V36378

VICTORIAN vulcanite oval
flower bouquet brooch circa 1880, 2-1/8" by 1-5/8".
View #V36052

VICTORIAN vulcanite watch chain with
oval double hole links, 20" long with links 1" by 3/4" down to 3/4" by 1/2",
easily wearable as a neckalce.
View #V31588

VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing a vulcanite locket on a
black ribbon, 2-1/2" by 4". "Henry Knight, Artist & photographer, Regina House,
Grand Parade, St. Leonard’s on Sea".
View
View #Vkph19

VICTORIAN vulcanite men’s watch chain,
also worn as a necklace, 17"
long with graduated links from 1-1/4" by 3/4" down to 3/4" by 1/2".
View #V31774

VICTORIAN lady wearing vulcanite
chain necklace and cross pendant, gold earrings and ring.
View

JET is the black
fossilized wood of a particular tree that grew millions of years ago. It is
particularly associated with the English town of Whitby where much of it was fashioned into
jewelry and accessories. While jet was made into jewelry throughout the
1800’s, it was especially fashionable between 1860 and 1890. Like amber, it
will pick up paper when static is created by rubbing it on wool or silk.

GUTTA PERCHA is the sap of the Dichopsis tree also found in Malaysia. Invented
by William Montgomerie in 1843, it was used mainly in technical articles
like driving belts, stoppers, tubs,
pails, cups, washing drums and cables. It was also used for household
purposes such as mouthpieces for whistles, sticks and riding whips. It was
very rarely used for jewelry.

Pieces like these, circa 1860-1890, can be seen in Helen Muller’s
book Jet and in Christie Romero’s Warman’s Jewelry,
Ed. 3 on pages 51 and 52.

VICTORIAN vulcanite
fuchsia oval 1-7/8" locket on 28" chain, one link missing.
View
View #V27201

VICTORIAN vulcanite 15"
chain with 18" ribbon and 2-5/8" deep relief teardrop shaped cameo pendant,
30". See page 126 of Helen Muller’s book "Jet" for a similar
design.
View #V27246

VICTORIAN vulcanite teardrop
shaped cameo pendant, 1-1/3".
V27238

VICTORIAN lady wearing
an elaborate cameo mourning piece.
View

VICTORIAN vulcanite
pendant on original chain, fastened with ribbon, 34" total. 4" pendant and
chain.
View #V27204

VICTORIAN lady
wearing a cameo vulcanite necklace.
View

VICTORIAN
vulcanite lily-of-the-valley locket, photo cover on one side of inside,
1-7/8". View
#V28893

VICTORIAN lady wearing a
vulcanite neck chain and locket
View

VICTORIAN vulcanite pendant
with trumpet flowers and leaves, 2".
View #V26450

VICTORIAN lady with
fancy hat and vulcanite necklace.
View

VICTORIAN vulcanite locket with 3-dimensinal forget-me-not flowers and
leaves, 2-1/2". View
View #V27799

VICTORIAN
lady wearing a mourning necklace, brooch and earrings.

VICTORIAN vulcanite
neck or watch chain with original clasp, 20" by 3/4". #V25876

VICTORIAN vulcanite thick graduated links
watch chain or necklace,
22-1/2". Each link is graduated from 5/8" by 1/2" at the smallest
up to 3/4" by 1" at the largest. View #V28209

VICTORIAN black
bead muff chain, 54".
View #V25993

VICTORIAN vulcanite watch
chain, 13" with 4" decorative drop. #V27236

VICTORIAN lady wearing
vulcanite necklace with cross pendant.

VICTORIAN vulcanite 24" necklace with carved 1-1/2" cross.
View #V28802

VICTORIAN lady wearing a vulcanite
pendant on a black ribbon.

VICTORIAN vulcanite
beads, long strand 68".
#V27695

VICTORIAN vulcanite 17"
necklace with 2-1/2" anchor pendant. The anchor is the symbol of hope.
View #V28557

VICTORIAN dyed
black wooden beads, knotted between each bead, silver hook closure, 52".
View #V28416

VICTORIAN vulcanite necklace with unusually large square graduated links
chain, 20" with links from 1" by 7/8" down to 5/8" by 1/2".
View #V32217

VICTORIAN vulcanite
graduated links necklace, 21" with links 1-1/4" by 7/8" graduating down to
3/4" by 1/2". View #V31336

VICTORIAN vulcanite
chain, 20" long with links from 1/3" by 1/2" to 3/4" by 1".
View #V28556

VICTORIAN vulcanite long
watch chain with oval fob, 15".
View #V31333

VICTORIAN vulcanite
links chain with hook closure, circa 1880, 20" by 5/8".
View #V33986

VICTORIAN horn
links necklace with hook closure circa 1880, 22" by 5/8".
View #V61887

VICTORIAN horn
chain necklace with hook closure circa 1880, a nice length at 21" by 1/2".
#V61802

VICTORIAN vulcanite watch chain and book charm, chain 14" book 1" by 3/4". #V32621

There are several materials used to make mourning
jewelry, and they can be very difficult to distinguish between: jet, bog oak,
horn and vulcanite. Jet was hand carved, while the other materials were pressed or molded.

For information on identifying these and
other materials, see the booklet "What’s It
Made Of ?" by Sherry Shatz.

VICTORIAN lady wearing parure of necklace, bracelet and earrings.
View
View

VICTORIAN vulcanite
cross pendant, 3-1/8".
View #V25356

VICTORIAN vulcanite
cross with leaves design pendant, 3-1/4".
View #V29296

VICTORIAN vulcanite lily cross pendant, 3" by 1-7/8" by
3/4" thick.
View

View #V32620

VICTORIAN lady wearing matching jet cross pendant and earrings and a
black neck ribbon. Carte de viste size 2-1/2" by 4-1/4", marked on the back
"Ulke Bros., No 1111 Penn. Avenue, Washington, DC, 1872" and hand written in
ink "Julia, with love Judith".
One photo expert contacted me wondering if this CDV might have been a
gift to U.S. Grant’s wife, Julia, as the Ulke Brothers were well known
as photographers of the politically famous in Washington DC, and 1872
was the beginning of Grant’s 2nd term as President. I would love to know
who she is.

VICTORIAN vulcanite
cross pendant with design on the front, 2-1/8" by 1-1/3".
View #V31334

VICTORIAN large pressed horn cross, 4-1/2"
by 2-1/2". View #V28200

VICTORIAN
vulcanite cross on chain necklace, hook closure, 1-3/4" by 19".
View #V29962

VICTORIAN vulcanite long
chain, 34". View #V29470

VICTORIAN pressed
horn "IHS" (In Hoc Signo) cross pendant, 3-1/3" by 2".
View #V32825

"Jet" by Helen Muller

Helen Muller