Eisenberg Patents

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JEWEL CHAT
Costume Jewelry Magazine

Jewelry
Patents
Eisenberg

Information about the jewelry companies comes from personal contacts and
materials, old versions of "The Keystone Jewelry Trade Book" or "American
Jewelry Manufacturers" by Dorothy T. Rainwater.

F. NATHAN, 1942
probably for EISENBERG
No. 132,436
pin
Florence Nathan

EISENBERG bow
brooch, a newer version of the one shown in patent No. 132,436.
Courtesy of Bobye Syverson

F. NATHAN, 1942
probably for EISENBERG
No. 132,446
pin
Florence Nathan

F. NATHAN, 1942
probably for EISENBERG
No. 132,437
pin (fur clip)
Florence Nathan

NOTE:
As I understand it, Florence Nathan was the assistant to, and eventually
married, the owner of the company that manufactured Eisenberg jewelry. Her
name is on the patents, but she did not actually do the design work.

F. NATHAN, 1942
probably for EISENBERG
No. 132,438
pin
Florence Nathan

EISENBERG
brooch as shown in patent No. 132,438.
Courtesy of Bobye Syverson

PURPLE and clear
rhinestones unsigned brooch. This is NOT an Eisenberg, but is so very
similar. It is a good example of why we must be very careful in identifying
unsigned pieces by patents drawings.
View
View #Y16553

F. NATHAN, 1942
probably for EISENBERG
No. 132,451
pin (fur clip)
Florence Nathan

F. NATHAN, 1942
probably for EISENBERG
No. 132,452
pin
Florence Nathan

F. NATHAN, 1942
probably for EISENBERG
No. 132,455
pin
Florence Nathan

F. NATHAN, 1942
probably for EISENBERG
No. 132,439
pin (fur clip)
Florence Nathan

Regarding the attribution of the Florence Nathan patents to Eisenberg
Jewelry, Jim Katz says, "On page 179 of Brunialti’s book, A
Tribute to America, there is a February 1942 Vogue advertisement. Under
the ad the Brunailti’s state, "Eisenberg jewelry designed by Florence
Nathan." Two of the patents are identical with two of the pieces in the
ad, items "H" (bow pin) and "D" (bracelet). Even though the ad states
"Eisenberg Ice" in its title, inside it says, "Each Piece Hallmarked
Eisenberg Original". Also the patents were all filed together and granted
in May of 1942.

Bobye Syverson says that Florence Nathan was not actually a designer,
but was the wife of the owner of Manhattan company Fallon and Kappel who
manufactured Eisenberg jewelry at the time. Florence was the assistant
to Mr. Kappel. In 1943, Florence married Murray Silverman, who joined F&K
shortly after World War II and was in charge of production. When Mr. Kappel
became sick in the late 40s, the Silverman’s bought the business from him.
(This information is from a VFCJ Newsletter interview with Ruth Kamke,
the Eisenberg designer.)

F. NATHAN, 1942
probably for EISENBERG
No. 132,443
pin
Florence Nathan

F. NATHAN, 1942
probably for EISENBERG
No. 132,444
pin (fur clip)
Florence Nathan

F. NATHAN, 1942
probably for EISENBERG
No. 132,445
pin (fur clip)
Florence Nathan

F. NATHAN, 1942
probably for EISENBERG
No. 132,447
pin (fur clip)
Florence Nathan

F. NATHAN, 1942
probably for EISENBERG
No. 132,449
pin (fur clip)
Florence Nathan

F. NATHAN, 1942
probably for EISENBERG
No. 132,454
pin (fur clip)
Florence Nathan

F. NATHAN, 1942
probably for EISENBERG
No. 132,456
pin (fur clip)
Florence Nathan

EISENBERG ORIGINAL fur clip with
graduated round clear rhinestones set in silver tone, slightly s-curved for
a dramatic look, circa 1942,3-3/4".
View #E65120

EISENBERG patent 132,457 date 1942 for the fur clip shown at the left.
F. NATHAN, 1942
probably for EISENBERG
No. 132,457
pin (fur clip)
Florence Nathan

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