Jewelry Symbols

Morning Glory Antiques &
Jewelry
presents
~

JEWEL CHAT
Costume Jewelry Magazine

Jewelry
Symbols

Symbols, myths, tokens and mysteries… the things of which stories are
made. Personal adornment began when man first walked upright, and the
methods and meanings of that adornment has had a certain constancy through
the centuries. While shapes and patterns may call to mind different meanings
in various cultures, there is enough similarity to make interpreting them
add an interesting dimension to jewelry collecting.

The
ACORN
is a symbol of fertility and immortality, probably because they are the
seeds of the "mighty oak".

OAK
trees can live over 100
years, and are considered a symbol of strength and stability. The oak
tree was also the mythical home of the god of thunder, so the acorn was
thought to be a charm against lightening.

STERLING acorn
1″ screw back earrings.
View #N23945

VICTORIAN 14k yellow gold
earrings, each a foil-backed closed collet set dark citrines suspending an
acorn-shaped hair pendant, 1-1/2". #V32067

AQUA cabochons, clear rhinestones
and gold tone acorns pin,3". See "Adrian Classic" by Whalton, page 22-B.
View #Y23552

VICTORIAN earrings,
moonstone shaped as acorns, 7/8". #V32052

The
BUCKLE
is a symbol of self-defense, strength and protection. It is sometimes
associated with the
GARTER, the symbol of
binding loyalty and brotherhood.

VICTORIAN 9ct buckle ring dated 1898.
View #G24203

VICTORIAN sterling hinged
bangle with floral engraving, hallmarks inside, circa 1885, 6-1/2" by 1".
(Similar piece seen in Christie Romero’s "Warman’s Jewelry, 2nd Ed, page
62.)
View
View
View #V24970

VICTORIAN gold garter
pin, 1-1/4".
View #V24442

VICTORIAN silver buckle
bangle with etched design , 7" by 1".
View
View #V26083

VICTORIAN agate and sterling
silver buckle bracelet, total length 10-1/2" by 1" wide, wearable by a
7-1/2" to 9" wrist.
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View #V31562

CORAL
jewelry was thought in Victorian times to
promote good health, and was often worn by young children. Coral is also
associated
with the boundless sea and longevity.

VICTORIAN coral carved segments bracelet
with square rosette and carved bar stations, yellow gold fittings, 7-1/3" by 7/16". In
the Victorian era, wearing coral was thought to promote good health.
View #V32107

VICTORIAN parure of coral
beads set in yellow gold. The bracelet is four strands, 7" long with a safety
chain. The larger brooch has a watch hook on the back, 1-1/2"; the smaller
brooch, 3/4"; earrings are screw back, 7/8"; the ring is size 7, all circa
1890. In the Victorian era, coral was thought to promote good health. A
set almost identical to this can be seen in "Jewelry in America, 1600-1900" by
Martha Gandy Fales on page 245.
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View #V3800

The
CROSS
comes in many shapes and has meanings, spanning both time and place.
Elegant and symmetrical, it is a perfect motif for jewelry.

For a history of the Maltese cross symbol, click here

For a history of the Celtic cross symbol, click here

MALTESE cross brooch in blue and
amber cabochons and blue and green rhinestones, 2-1/4".
View #Y23179

VICTORIAN
vulcanite Maltese shaped cross with flowers and design, 1-1/2".
View #V25885

LES BERNARD cross brooch with
tiger-eye glass and topaz-colored rhinestones. #X21880

CUPID, cherub,
cherubim, putto… all refer to a similar child with wings, a member of
the order of angels. Illustrated in art, impishly pagan, symbolic of
love, romance and the guardians of the sacred, they are also a common motif in
jewelry.

CUPIDS hand painted on ivory
in soft delicate colors set into a gold colored metal frame with hinged
stand.
View
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View #a50473

LAVA
2-1/3" by 1-3/4" cameo brooch depicting cherubs using early
instruments of astronomy to view the stars.
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CARNEGIE
enameled cast metal angel child brooch, 4". This is a large and heavy
piece with lustrous enameling, and unlike any Carnegie I have seen before.
View #C23043

A PUTTO (plural PUTTI) is
a charming chubby nude child often depicted in art from the 15th century
on, especially in Italy. Also called an amorino, a cherub
or Cupid. "Eros" to the Greeks, or "Cupid" to the Romans, was the
pagan god of love in all its many forms. Armed with his bows and arrows,
he is always depicted with wings.

Though we now associate Cupid as a
somewhat frivolous symbol of Valentine’s Day, in classical times he was
seen as one of the most powerful of the gods… irresistible,
mischievous, and often a trouble maker. Where Cupid is, love will
follow.

Edwardian 14k and enameled
pendant watch set with an old mine cut diamonds, a ruby, 5 pearls and one
central fresh water pearl. Cherubs decorate the watch, and fantasy
animals decorate the pin. Engraved on the inside from a father to his
daughter on Christmas 1904.
View
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View #V24861

DRAGON MYTHS
are found in almost every country. While he is a fantasy creature, most
like a reptile or serpent, he has a real place in stories and ceremonies
round the world. Some of them are ever said to be fire breathers!

CHINESE Blumenthal style dragon brooch with a cloisonne ball in
green, cinnabar red, navy blue and aqua, brooch 3" by 2", Chinese marks
on the back.

View #X38620

BLUMENTHAL chatelaine pins with dragons and cloisonne balls and gold tone
tassels, total length 9-1/3. each end 4" long, marked on the back "Blumenthal &
Co Inc.

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View #X38630

DRAGON brooch with
enameled egg, 2-1/3", illegible mark on the back.
View
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View #Y22141

BUCKLE Asian three-toed dragon
two-piece buckle, hallmarked, total 3" by 1-7/8".
View
View #Q32637

JAY STRONGWATER winged
dragon brooch. His pieces always have a different look, and this is my all-time
favorite! Circa 1998.
View
View #K14568

BEN MELTZER Inc NY pendant necklace with a dragon motif and aqua
glass cabochons set in antiqued gold tone on the pendant, and both
peacock colored and aqua glass beads and open filigree beads on the
chain. Spectacular! The pendant is 3" by 2-1/8" and the chain is 26"
long. On the back you can see silver tone solder points, but they do
seem to be original to the piece. And separating the pendant and the
chain is a faux Asian coin element.

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View #X39283

The
FLEUR-DE-LIS,
a stylized IRIS or LILY, is the symbol of light and hope and shares it’s
meanings with the flowers it represents. Associated with the
trinity, it has also been a sign of royalty.

ART NOUVEAU 14k Art
Nouveau enameled and pearl iris pin, 7/8".
View #Q25912


LORGNETTE sterling Art Nouveau Iris motif, 5" by 1-1/4".
View
View #L20909

Brooches and chatelaine pins, among which are the popular
fleur-de-lis pins.

FLEUR de LIS gold
tone and artificial pearl brooch.
View #Y19803

FORGET-ME-NOT
flowers are used to symbolize constant attachment and affection and a
wish that love would not die.

The GRIFFIN
(or Gryphon)
is a mythological creature that combines the attributes
of both lion and eagle and symbolize wisdom and strength.

IVY
is the sign of immortality and
everlasting life. A plant affiliated with the gods Osiris and Dionysos,
it can also symbolize constant attachment and affection.

VICTORIAN silver locket with etched ivy design, fitting and cover on one
side inside, 1-7/8" by 1-1/3".
View #V32208

VICTORIAN silver etched ivy with beaded edge pierced earrings, total length
7/8" by 3/4" wide. View #V32206

VICTORIAN thin silver bangle with etched leaves design on front, slight
ding on back, 6-1/2" by 1/2".
View
View #V32214

VICTORIAN sterling 2" ornate bows and ivy leaves bar pin hallmarked
Chester, England, 1900-1. #V13432
View
View #V13432

VICTORIAN ornate bows and ivy leaves
bar pin. View #V13421

The
MOON
is sometimes thought of as female, mate
to the male Sun. Keeper of the cycles and rhythms of time, nocturnal
animals are associated with it. The archangel Gabriel is said to have as
his abode the moon, and the crescent moon is one of the symbols of the
goddess Isis. The moon also symbolizes death and rebirth in it’s waxing
and waning.

The word
PANSY
came from the French word for "think of
me", pensée. A symbol of
remembrance, it is a lovely design for any piece of jewelry.

VICTORIAN vulcanite
2-5/8" pendant with pansies hand painted on porcelain, circa 1870.
View #V27373

ENAMELED pansies bracelet
with rose colored glass cabochons and purple, green and yellow enameling,
wonderful detail, 7" by 1".
View
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#Y19269

The
PEACOCK
represents beauty, dignity and immortality as well
as pride and vanity. It is
the symbol of Goddesses Juno and Hera and of St. Barbara, and can also
symbolize royalty. The peacock motif was often used in both Art Nouveau
and Arts & Crafts jewelry. In ancient times, the peacock was the
symbol of rebirth and eternal life.

The
POPPY
is sacred to deities of the moon and represents obliviousness and sleep.
A white poppy is the symbol of peace.

JUSTIN
Arts & Crafts leather purse with poppy motif, back strap, 7″ by 5-1/2″.
There is a top toggle and drop missing form the frame of this purse, but it
is still useable and operates perfectly.
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View #P26689

TRIFARI red poppy 3" fur clip circa 1941. #T12295

The
ROSE, in addition
to being a joy in the garden and a treasure in jewelry, is one of the
most complex symbols in history. Depending on the context, it can stand
for perfection, passion, secrecy, desire or virginity.
In the Victorian language of flowers, the wild rose symbolizes
simplicity, the white rose worthiness and innocence, the red rose
charity and love, the yellow rose friendship and the pink rose grace and
beauty.
In Egyptian times roses were scared to Isis, goddess of love and magic,
and in Greek times to Aurora, goddess of dawn. As a funeral flower, it
symbolizes eternal life.

ROSE bouquet. This enameled wonder needn’t be signed…
it’s a three-dimensional treasure with no known maker.
View
#Y19268

MAZER Bros
silver tone with clear and aqua rhinestones rose brooch, 3-1/4".
View #M25060

HAND
PAINTED porcelain brooch of yellow roses, symbolic of friendship.

The SHAMROCK
is an emblem of both Ireland and St. Patrick, as well as of trinity.
Purported to bring good luck, it was given as best wishes to a friend or
loved one. The shamrock is also said to have magic powers.

SHAMROCK enameled and seed pearls
brooch, crica 1900.
View #Q24388

The
SNAKE
or serpent in Victorian jewelry was often
entwined to symbolize infinity and eternal love.

VICTORIAN
Whitby jet
snake bracelet with beautifully carved head, about 18" long and 1-3" to 1-8"
wide. See page 83 of Helen Muller’s book "Jet". Similar piece seen in
Helen Mueller’s "Jet" on page 83; in Christie Romero’s "Warman’s Jewelry, 2nd Ed" page 32
and 3rd edition page 51; and in Becker’s "Antique & Twentieth Century
Jewelry" on page 54. #V29886

VICTORIAN 14k yellow
gold snake bracelet with Persian turquoise head and garnet eyes, snake
1-1/2" by 3/4", total 7".
View
View
View #V32252

VICTORIAN gold filled snake brooch
with green and red rhinestones,
1-3/4". View
#V29250

SNAKE silver tone and clear
rhinestones snake wrap bracelet, marked "Patented" and approx 7-1/2" but
is adjustable. #Y24892

VICTORIAN hair
brooch, tiny two-sided glass covered compartments, snake frame, 1". In
Victorian times, the snake was the symbol of eternal love.
View #V27356

MAZER Joseph Mazer
textured gold tone hinged snake bracelet with rhinestone eyes and tail tip,
7" by 1".
View #M25950

STARS
are
symbols of light in the darkness, hope, the highest point man can reach.
Sparkling, brilliant and mysterious… a perfect shape for jewelry.

Seed
pearl Edwardian starburst brooch, circa 1900. #Q22923

Trifari star series
as seen in the 1966 catalogue.

RHINESTONE 4-3/4" comet brooch,
circa 1945. View
#Y23038

The
SUN
is the giver of life, supreme power and light. Male symbol to the moon’s
female, it is the heart of the cosmos.

EISENBERG gold tone and red
enamel lady faces 1" earrings, marked on the back with the script "E".
View
View #E21863

BIRDS can symbolize
many things depending on the type of bird. A swallow or dove can mean
home, or the soul winging it’s way to heaven. It can also mean hope, as
in Noah’s dove with the leaf in it’s mouth.

VICTORIAN sterling
silver bird, heart, flowers and leaves pin, hallmarked circa 1890, 1-5/8".
View
View #V27908

VICTORIAN sterling silver hallmarked 1894 bird brooch with floral and leaf
design, 1-7/8". View
View #V29132

VICTORIAN sterling
bird bar brooch hallmarked Chester 1892, 1-7/8".
View #V28800

The
SWAN
is symbolic of purity and grace, and is the familiar of the goddess
Leda.

WHITE and black enameled swan brooch with hinged
wing, 2-1/3".
View View
#Y24340

DEUTZ brown wool 7-1/2" by 8" purse with 2" wide gold tone frame, 2-3/4"
detachable swan brooch, double chain 10" handle.
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View #P26705

STERLING swans brooch, 1-7/8".
View #N24789

The
VIOLET
is the symbol of shy modesty and quiet virtue. It is the flower of the
Greek god Ares.

14k ENAMELED and pearl
1-1/8" violet pin, marked on the catch with an arrow through a heart mark,
circa 1910. This pin has very slight enamel loss.
View #Q11738

ENAMEL Horner sterling lavender
and white Guilloche enamel pin with violet, 2-1/8".
View #Y26243

Hand painted
porcelain brooch, 1-3/8". #Q23868

A
WREATH
is a symbol of victory, merit and of
anything venerated. Originally a wreath of olives leaves was presented
to the winners at the Olympics. The wreath is also a sign of holiday
festivities.

TRIFARI wreath pin with clear
rhinestones set in silver and gold tone. View
#T19863