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Portrait &
Photographic
Jewelry
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VICTORIAN lady
wearing a portrait brooch, cut steel buttons and diamond earrings. Cabinet
card size 4-1/4" by 6-1/2", marked "J. O. Herbert, Grand Rapids, Wis." |
VICTORIAN lady wearing a portrait brooch. |
VICTORIAN lady
wearing a portrait brooch and a watch chain with a ring as an ornament.
Cabinet card size 4-1/4" by 6-1/2" marked on the front "Younge, Over
Glenn’s, Franklin Square, Utica, NY".
View |
VICTORIAN lady
wearing a portrait brooch and watch chain. Cabinet Card size 4-1/4" by
6-1/2" marked "Jacoby, Minneapolis" on the front. |
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PORTRAIT JEWELRY
It can be hand painted on ivory, porcelain, paper or
mother-of-pearl…. it can be set in gold with precious gems, mounted on jet or
simply
costume jewelry… it can be a lovely lady, a dignified gentleman or a
charming child…
Portrait jewelry is a sentimental favorite, a personality
captured in time and a classic fashion accessory.
In the days before photography, a hand-painted portrait miniature was the
only way to preserve an image of a loved one and a
desirable keepsake or love token. While some of these miniature art works
were done of actual people including both royalty and everyday folks, others were painted of mythological
characters and fictional lovely ladies. Mother-of-pearl, ivory and vellum were
often used as painting surfaces. Settings range from the simplest rolled gold
twist frame brooch to gem encrusted wonders.
Artists who did portrait
miniatures were called "limners" and they did pieces for jewelry
as well as work meant to be framed for display, often in lacquered wood or
ivory embellished frames. Some traveled from city to city taking
commissions as they went. Portraits could be worn on velvet ribbons around
the neck, as brooches, rings and bracelets, and in lockets. Even men
occasionally worn portraits suspended around the neck under their shirts.
Collectors of Victorian portrait jewelry prefer artist-signed pieces, lovely
ladies and children, and identifiable individuals. Portraits that combine
enclosures for hair or include an engraved notation are also sought after.
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VICTORIAN hand painted
portrait of a lady in a tortoise frame, circa 1820.
View
View
View
View #a26493 |
CUPIDS hand painted on ivory in
soft delicate colors set into a gold colored metal frame with hinged
stand.
View
View
View #A50473 |
CUPID hand painted on ivory in
soft delicate colors set into a gold colored metal frame with hinged
stand and bow motif on top.
View
View
View
View
View #A50474 |
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PORTRAIT hand painted portrait on ivory, lady with jewelry.
View
View #a26477 |
PORTRAIT hand painted portrait on ivory, lady in empire dress, "Blessington"
marked on back. View
View
View
View #a26478 |
PORTRAIT enamel on metal
detailed and lovely lady in metal frame,
View #a26191 |
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Early
portrait miniatures were hand painted images of real people, such as
those shown below. Traveling artists known as "limners" went from town
to town offering their services, and their work varies from very
primitive to very professional. Since there was no photography until the
mid-1800s, this was the only way of preserving the likeness of a loved
one.
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Business card of an early portrait painter,
F. J. Borden of Swanton, Vermont |
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Many portrait painters traveled to find their
subjects, working in the client’s home. |
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F.J. Borden,
Crayon and pastel portraits |
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VICTORIAN 14k gentleman’s portrait 2-1/8" oval brooch engraved on the
back "Catherine Graham, Albany NY".
View #V23370 |
Group of portrait, photographic and memorial
jewelry. |
PORTRAIT Pendant Victorian
hand painted portrait, probably on ivory, 2-3/4". On the reverse is a lock of his hair.
View |
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Some
portrait miniatures are transfers rather than hand painted, such as
those shown below. Occasionally they were a combination of transfers and
hand painted details. These were pictures of attractive people, usually
women, often wearing fancy or ethnic dress.
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PORTRAIT brooch hand painted on porcelain
in a twisted gold tone setting.
View #V23717 |
PORTRAIT
porcelain transfer portrait brooch, lady with green veil, 1-1/2".
View #Y25355 |
VICTORIAN
portrait brooch, 2-1/2". This lady dressed in plum is delicately hand
painted on a porcelain disk set into a twisted gold filled setting. Notice
the detail of the feather in her hat.
View #V22943 |
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VICTORIAN lady hand painted porcelain brooch, wearing
pink rose and necklace, 1-7/8".
View #V27596 |
VICTORIAN yellow
gold enamel painted portrait pierced earrings, pendant portion 1-1/3".
See Bell’s "Collecting Victorian Jewelry" page 158.
View
View #V27338 |
VICTORIAN bellman’s cap
transfer with hand painted transfer details portrait brooch in twisted
gold tone frame, 2-1/3".
View #V27593 |
VICTORIAN painted
porcelain portrait brooch, 2" with tiny factory face "dimple".
View #V24885 |
VICTORIAN portrait
brooch 2-1/4" in gold tone frame.
View #V24860 |
VICTORIAN vintage lady
transfer with hand painted details on porcelain portrait pin.
View #V24933 |
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VICTORIAN hand painted portrait brooch, lady in feathered hat set in
gold tone, 1-1/2" by 1-1/8".
View #V30093 |
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Miniature
portraits go back almost as far as written history itself. Because they
could be either carried easily or worn prominently, they were a favorite
item of sentiment. The best quality are the hand painted pieces, rich in
detail and capturing the personality of the subject. Set in everything
from fine gold and diamonds to Victorian jet, the value can vary widely.
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VICTORIAN 2"
"gypsy boy" hand detailed portrait on jet segmented bracelet 1" wide and
strung on elastic, fits a 6 to 6-1/2" wrist.
View #V28835 |
VICTORIAN
lady wearing a portrait pendant set in jet on a black neck ribbon and a bog
oak oval brooch at her neckline. Carte de viste size 2-1/2" by 4-1/4",
marked "R.P. Skeolan, Harrogate" on the front and "miniature painter" on the
back.
View |
VICTORIAN painted porcelain
set in vulcanite boy portrait brooch, 2-1/8".
View #V25351
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VICTORIAN jet
hand painted praying child teardrop shaped 2-1/4" portrait pendant on 20"
fabric ribbon.
View
View #V28833 |
VICTORIAN jet and hand painted on porcelain lady in pink and blue
portrait brooch, Greek key design edge, 1-7/8" by 1-1/2".
View #V29889 |
VICTORIAN jet pendant with
painted lady portrait, 2".
View #V25926 |
VICTORIAN jet hand
painted child on porcelain brooch, 1-1/3".
View #V29291 |
VICTORIAN
hand painted child pendant, crack on front and repair on loop, 1-3/4".
View #V27781 |
VICTORIAN
jet with "Vagabond Boy" portrait on porcelain pierced earrings, 2".
View
View #V27912 |
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VICTORIAN jet brooch with
inset hand painted porcelain "Tyrolean boy", 1-3/4".
View #V29224 |
VICTORIAN vulcanite pendant
with hand painted porcelain pink "Tyrolean boy" portrait, 2-5/8".
View #V29161 |
VICTORIAN
vulcanite green boy pendant, 2-5/8".
View #V28876 |
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VICTORIAN jet teardrop pendant with transfer and hand
detailed Gypsy boy portrait, one tiny flea bite visible only from back, 2"
with 3/4" loop. View
View #V31804 |
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VICTORIAN painted
cherub portrait on porcelain with hair compartment on the back, 1-3/4" by 1-1/4". Raphael
(Raffaello Sanzio, 1483-1520) was a great, late Renaissance Italian artist.
Raphael’s Cherub is part of his early 1500s Sistine Chapel murals in the
Vatican. Many Victorian pieces were made with this as their inspiration,
including this one.
View
View #V29914
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VICTORIAN jet cherub 1-7/8"
by 1-1/2" locket with photo and hair on back suspended on a 20" faceted French
jet glass beads chain. Raphael (Raffaello Sanzio,
1483-1520) was a great, late Renaissance Italian artist. Raphael’s Cherub is
part of his early 1500s Sistine Chapel murals in the Vatican. Many Victorian
pieces were made with this as their inspiration, including this one. A
similar piece can be seen on page 167 of Bell’s "Collecting Victorian
Jewelry". View
View #V29917 |
CHERUB hand
painted painted cherub buckle, 2-1/2".
View #i26388 |
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ENAMEL
MINIATURE PORTRAIT lady of fashion painted on porcelain 2 3/4” pin,
w/safety chain, hinged c-clasp, tests at least 14k. #V12530 |
ENAMEL
MINIATURE PORTRAIT lady in blue painted on porcelain. This pin with
safety chain and a hinged c-clasp is set in a 9c gold scalloped frame, 2
1/4" tall. #V12529 |
ENAMEL MINIATURE BOY
2 1/8” x1 3/4" portrait pin painted on porcelain, set in jet. The back
has a hinged c-clasp, circa 1870.
View #V12532 |
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MADONNA and
child painted portrait brooch in a twisted and enameled frame. Painted
after Raphel’s "The Madonna of the Chair". |
ENAMELED
religious picture set in 18k gold with blue stones.
View
View
View
View
View |
VICTORIAN enameled
picture of a lady brooch.
View
#V15671 |
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HAND PAINTED lady with floral cape brooch, marked "TA Made in
England" , 1-3/4". View
View #Y26454
$96.00 USD |
VICTORIAN transfer and hand
painted lady picking roses brooch set in twisted gold framed brooch with
safety, 2-1/4". View
View #V26081 |
PORTRAIT
marked "TA Made in England" hand painted portrait pin, lady dressed in
1800’s fashions, 2-1/3".
View
View
View #V25991 |
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These settings have a Victorian or Czech
style, and are highly collectible. Brooches are more common, and
earrings more difficult to find. Pieces with multiple portraits are also
more rare.
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PORTRAIT BROOCH set in mother-of-pearl 1-5/8 inch
brooch. View
#V16362
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CZECH style brooch with four
portraits on porcelain set in gold tone with red rhinestones, 4".
View
View
View #X27676 |
VICTORIAN 18k yellow
gold portrait pierced earrings, pendant portion 1-1/3".
View
View #V27338 |
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PORTRAIT 16-1/2" necklace
with oval porcelain transfer portrait.
View
View #Z21237 |
VICTORIAN painted portrait
brooch in a twisted gold tone frame, 1-1/2".
View #V16063 |
CZECH porcelain portrait
screw back earrings, 2-1/3".
View
View #Q24872 |
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VICTORIAN portraits on
porcelain. The bezel set square brooch is 2"; the oval bezel set brooch is
1-3/4" and may be worn as a brooch or pendant; and the bracelet is 7"
long with 4 different portraits, each separated by enamel and real seed
pearls. None of the porcelains are signed.
Courtesy of Molly Garza |
VICTORIAN portrait earrings.
View
View #V18695 |
CZECH green
glass and enameled portrait necklace with artificial pearl accents.
#Q24516 |
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HINGED gold tone bangle
7" b y 1" bracelet with porcelain portrait on the front.
View #V17805 |
LALIQUE
designed French World War I medal pendant, struck for donors to an
orphanage for war orphans.
View
View #XJK |
CZECH orange
glass and enameled portrait necklace with artificial pearl accents.
#Q2731
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STERLING Art
Nouveau 2" embossed face brooch.
View View
#Q17486 |
STERLING silver embossed Gibson girl
with golf club brooch, pierced star mark on back, 2-1/4".
View #Q25874 |
STERLING lady
embossed face 1"
pendant on 18" chain
View #Q21848 |
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Some
mid-twentieth century costume pieces were fashioned around European portrait miniatures, such as those shown below. Hand painted in
either watercolors or oils on ivory or celluloid, they are a delicate reminder of times and
fashions past.
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ROSENSTEIN
did an entire series of portrait pieces…
View #X22409 |
…. and these are just some of several examples. View
#X11708 |
ROSENSTEIN sterling
vermeil and clear rhinestones hand painted Degas-style ballerina brooch,
1-5/8". View
#X22135 |
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ROSENSTEIN
portrait pendant. #X13719 |
HASKELL/VRBA this fabulous portrait pin was made for a Broadway play
by Larry Vrba when he was the designer for Miriam Haskell Jewelry. There was more regal-looking jewelry made for the same
play, and I dream of finding other pieces.
View
View
#H10012 |
FLORENZA
portrait brooch/frame. The portrait is the same subject
as the Haskell/Vrba brooch at the right.
View
#X21469 |
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HOBE
portrait 2-1/4" pin and earrings with purple rhinestones, lady in pastel
blue. View
#O11670 |
HOBE
portrait ring with green rhinestone surround. #O11606 |
ROBERT
hand painted portrait pin, 2".
View #R25207 |
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ROSENSTEIN hand painted
portrait brooch in gold tone with artificial pearls and clear rhinestones.
View
View #X26514 |
ROSENSTEIN
portrait enameled on metal set in gold tone with clear rhinestones brooch,
2-3/4". View
#X27683 |
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In the
early to mid-twentieth century portrait jewelry was often hand painted
on porcelain disks in the
same style as china painting. Like china painting, some artists had much
greater skill than others in capturing a likeness as can be seen in the
examples below.
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HAND PAINTED
portrait of a lady in her best hat, 2".
View #Y26396 |
PORTRAIT painted
on porcelain of a lady with pink roses in her hair and at her bodice.
#Y10512 |
PORTRAIT
painted on porcelain of a lady with pink roses in her hair.
View #Y18821 |
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Twentieth
century portrait jewelry was sometimes printed rather than hand painted,
and while these pieces are lovely, the value and rarity is not the same
as the pieces that are hand done.
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FLORENZA portrait
brooch/pendant in textured gold tone setting with flower and leaf
design, 2".
View #L24823 |
FLORENZA 2" portrait locket
pendant on 22" chain and 1-1/8" earrings.
View #L24837 |
ART
2" portrait pin with ornate gold tone setting.
View #X24621 |
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BUTTERFLY wing
portrait brooch set in sterling. #Ybfly |
COVENTRY Mona Lisa
1-5/8" portrait pin.
View #X24714 |
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PHOTOGRAPH JEWELRY
Given and worn as a token of love and remembrance, photographic
jewelry documents history and personality as well as family ties. When
photography was invented, the art of hand painting miniature portraits for
jewelry became less common in favor of photographic pieces.
Photography was an invention of the Victorian era, and photographic
jewelry represented a permanent way to document beloved friends and family.
Since the opportunity to be photographed was not as prevalent as it is now,
a photo was a precious thing. Worn as brooches, cufflinks and pendants, these faces from the past were
most often mounted in non-precious metals under crystal or celluloid covers
for protection.
Collectors especially appreciate pictures of lovely women and
children, Civil War soldiers and subjects wearing interesting clothing or
jewelry. Here again, the addition of engraving, especially dates and love
messages, makes the piece more interesting.
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Great Aunt Mary and my Grandmother Agnes as young
girls, circa 1890’s. View |
My favorite Aunt Sissie in her white lawn
high-necked Edwardian blouse, circa 1910. View |
Photo brooch of three of my Victorian-era
mustachioed uncles. View |
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My very bearded great great grandfather, circa 1870. View |
The photos of these two unidentified gentlemen
were
made into cuff links.
I assume that they were probably brothers. View |
VICTORIAN 1-3/4 inch
hair and photo memorial swivel brooch. Now this is the original odd
couple, and I love these unusual ones! The back compartment contains very
blond hair. View
#V18650 |
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VICTORIAN carte de viste of a
lady wearing a photo brooch of a man in a gold and black enameled frame
and a narrow chain that wraps tightly around her neck and then hangs
down long, probably to her waist or slightly below. Marked on the back,
"Geo. F. Klein, 288 West Madison St, Chicago", 2-1/2" by 4-1/8".
View
View |
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VICTORIAN vulcanite
locket with fuchsia flowers, 4 photo compartments, 2-1/8".
View #V25284 |
VICTORIAN vulcanite 2" locket on 4-1/2" of chain.
View
View #V25357 |
VICTORIAN vulcanite
locket in ornate shield motif, 3-1/4".
View #V25285 |
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VICTORIAN photo
brooch in gold filled frame showing a lovely lady wearing her fanciest
hat, 2". View
#V25999 |
VICTORIAN
hand-colored photo brooch set in silver. Note the pendant watch she
wears.
View #V16809 |
PHOTOGRAPH multi-colored enamel photo portrait brooch signed on the
back and dated 1903. View
#V23944 |
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HEART-shaped
1-1/2" locket engraved "MLK" with charming photos of a couple inside. The
chain is 16" long. View
View #Y21474 |
VICTORIAN
round glass locket with star motif, ruby and pearls, 1-1/2", on 10k yellow
gold 19" newer chain. View
#V26680 |
GRADUATE photo brooch.
#Y16426 |
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SILVER frame/brooch
circa 1930. View
#Q16810 |
SOLDIER photo
pin, probably given to a sweetheart, as enameled forget-me-nots surround
the frame. #V16405 |
VICTORIAN
1-7/16" photo pin of a charming little girl.
View #V18686 |
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HOBE cameo
locket on a chain with photos inside.
View
View #O20244 |
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