We add articles, reference pages and recent acquisitions continually, so browse, enjoy, and feel free to email us with your comments or suggestions. As a reminder, dont forget: JEWEL CHAT REFERENCES where I add new material all the time.
MORNING GLORY also has a bricks and mortar store, the ANTIQUE CONNECTION MALL on Historic Route 66 at 12815 Central Ave NE, just off of Interstate-40 East at the foot of the Sandia Mountains. We have about 60
friendly and knowledgeable dealers in a 10,000 square foot clean, well lit, modern building, a pleasant place to shop.
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ALICE CAVINESS was a lovely petite blond with a southern drawl and a dynamic but feminine personality. Beginning her career as a fashion and glove model, she decided to widen her horizons and move into the jewelry business in the mid- to late-1940s. Jules Junquerra, her husband and a second generation Spaniard, had been in the lamp and shade business, but as the jewelry business began to grow, he joined her there instead. From the very beginning, Alice Caviness feminine charm and sense of quality showed in every piece she made. Walter Smith, my very kind source for the history of the company, began working for the Alice Caviness Jewelry Company right out of high school in about 1960. Like many others who worked there, he met Alice and her husband Jules and became like a member of the family. Walter worked his way up in the business, becoming one of the sales representatives, and continued his affiliation with her until he joined New York Police Department in 1973. Even then he and his wife continued working for the company until 1982. Walter says Alice and Jules were one of the most generous, honest and charismatic couples he ever knew, and still speaks of them today with great fondness. From the very beginning, a portion of the Caviness jewelry was produced in their own factory, but they also imported and commissioned pieces as well. The jewelry itself was designed by Alice or Millie Petronzio, her designer. Millie, who later became head designer at Miriam Haskell Jewelry, worked at Caviness until 1982. They often worked together by exchanging ideas, examining beads, rhinestones and findings and selecting color combinations. As far as Walter remembers, they did not work from sketches or drawings.
The first Caviness showroom was at the corner of 5th Avenue and 34th Street in New York City, but by the mid-50s they had moved to 435 5th Avenue, where they occupied the fourth and fifth floors. DeMario Jewelry was on the 6th floor and across the street was Lord & Taylors. In addition to the New York showroom, Caviness had showrooms in Dallas, Texas; Raleigh, North Carolina; Miami, Florida; Chicago, Illinois and Los Angeles, California, as well as showing at the trade shows. Her best jewelry sales were in the southwest, and her Dallas salesman was John Arnolds. Caviness Jewelry was sold only in high-end boutique and department stores and fine jewelry shops in United States, and they were very selective as to who carried their jewelry.
In the early 60s in Europe, Alice and Jules found manufacturers of superb sterling and gold-on-sterling jewelry, cloisonne enamels and filigrees. Those pieces became a staple in the line, and along with the "fashion" line, which consisted of rhinestone and bead costume jewelry, comprised the Caviness collection. Some of the European pieces can be seen in the 1970 catalogue by clicking HERE. As far as Walter knows, only two catalogues were ever produced.... one in about 1965 and one about in 1970. These catalogues were used in multiple years, with the prices being updated by inserting new price sheets. All Caviness jewelry was signed on at least one piece of a parure, but there was never a catalogue done for the fashion jewelry. Caviness Jewelry did their major lines in Spring & Fall, bringing many buyers to the NY showroom during these times.
Walter remembers certain pieces that remained in demand for many years. Millie Petronzio, head designer for 25 years, made a line called the "Cleopatra" which included a bib necklace of aqua oval cabochons joined by antiqued gold tone filigree diamond shapes. (Millie Petronzio was later the head designer for Miriam Haskell Jewelry). While it was also made in other colors, the aqua was by far the most popular and sold for several years. Another set that was very popular was the lovely green and pastels rhinestone set shown in our gallery, item #C28642 HERE. Groups from the fashion line could be run for many years if they continued to be in demand.
Both Alice Caviness and her husband had a strong sense of style, an honorable attitude toward business and high ethical standards. In about 1957, Alice Caviness was joined by Lois Steever. She was originally a sales representative who, about 25 years later in 1982 bought the business from the Cavinesses. Although Ms. Caviness retired to Florida in about 1980, and died in 1983, Lois Steever carried on with the line until about the year 2000. Caviness Jewelry is distinctive and unusual, which explains why it remains so popular today. Since it was a special line of jewelry with many fewer pieces made than companies like Coro and Trifari, it is more difficult to find today.
Alice Caviness jewelry and the pieces of Germany gilt sterling and marcasite jewelry like she imported can be purchased HERE.
Enjoy seeing a vintage Alice Caviness catalog by clicking HERE.
And see the Caviness jewelry we have had in the past HERE. |
This past week I ran across a 1942 issue of Time Magazine and found, to my delight, a feature about NETTIE ROSENSTEIN, the fashion designer. I would enjoy sharing it with you. Known in the trade as "Miss Rosie", Nettie Rosenstein designed clothing, accessories and jewelry. She was born in Austria in 1890, migrated with her family in the 1890s, and became an American fashion designer based in New York City. Rosenstein made clothing privately starting in 1917 in her brownstone house.
By 1921 she had moved to a space in the East Fifties. She sold in Californias I. Magnin, Neiman Marcus in Dallas, Mrs. Blums in Chicago and Nan Duskins in Philadelphia. Her dresses sold for $60-300 a piece wholesale. By the 1940s she was selling exclusively through Bonwit Tellers in Manhattan.
Pearl Harbor and World War II caused her business to decrease 50-90%, especially in evening wear. Between that and the shortage of fabrics, she was going out of business in 1942 according to this article, but she returned to business a few years later. She discontinued the fashion part of her business again in 1961, but her line of jewelry was kept alive by her partner, Sol Klein until 1975 when he retired. Mrs. Rosenstein died in March of 1980.
Well designed and with obvious quality, Rosenstein jewelry pieces are elegantly finished with great attention to detail. Nettie Rosenstein was a multi-talented lady, making clothing and accessories as well as a wonderful line of costume jewelry. Rosenstein jewelry comes in every size, shape and color, with favorites being the sterling vermeil and marcasite pieces, Oriental motifs and hand painted portrait jewelry.
To purchase NETTIE ROSENSTEIN jewelry please click HERE.
And to see more of her interesting jewelry in our gallery, click HERE. |
